"Birddog" (maintmgt)
02/22/2016 at 23:19 • Filed to: None
5
9|
"Birddog" (maintmgt)
02/22/2016 at 23:19 • Filed to: None | 5
| 9 |
So I got out of work a bit early today and figured I’d try to hunt down the oil leak on Crusty. Headed to the pressure wash with some quarters and a can of Gunk to blow off the Erl pan.
This was the worst idea in the history of my poor decision making life!
Turns out that the only thing keeping the erl in the pan (mostly) was the crust of rust.
Which is now gone..
The entire sump portion of the pan is paper thin and one spot was bleeding oil like that time you nicked your chin shaving and thought you were going to bleed to death. By time I got back to the office I was down about 2 quarts. This wasn’t going to do for the hour and a half commute home.
So, with the help of a 3/8 Tek screw with a captured rubber washer I was able to slow the leak to barely noticeable seepage and stopped the rest with Flex Seal.
Flex Seal. An excellent solution for poor judgement.
A new pan and gasket set will be here Wed so I guess my weekend is already planned out..
> Birddog
02/22/2016 at 23:26 |
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One time I had a leak like that on my 96' Mercury Grand Marquis. I ended up plugging it with radiator repair epoxy. Was suppose to be a temporary fix which turned into a permanent fix until the car was scrapped years later.
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Birddog
>
02/22/2016 at 23:30 |
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I thought about that but the sump metal is so thin I’d wind up making a new pan out of epoxy/JB/etc.
sdwarf36
> Birddog
02/22/2016 at 23:40 |
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I’ve used gas tank temp seal before. But for long term temp/perm fix JB weld. But for that you need to be completly clean + dry.
Urambo Tauro
> Birddog
02/22/2016 at 23:48 |
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Ghetto leak repair, huh? My Thunderbird once sprung a leak at one of the power steering lines. It was the kind of line that alternated between rubber and steel sections, and the leak was caused by friction where a steel portion ran between the oil pan and the K-member. I wanted to replace it, I really did. However, access was extremely difficult. To replace the line (or get any kind of flaring tool in there), the K-member or the engine itself would have to move first.
So, working with the limited space I had available, I cleaned the surface of the line and formed a wad of J-B Weld around it. Despite giving it time to cure, the car laughed at my attempt and kept bleeding fluid just to mock me.
So I removed the epoxy, prepped the surface again, and tried something slightly less ghetto. I took a short piece of high-pressure rubber hose, and cut a slit in it length-wise. I then slipped it over the line, rotated it so the slit was on the opposite side of the line from the hole, and clamped the shit out of it. It worked, and it’s still working after a couple of years.
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Birddog
02/23/2016 at 01:09 |
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This is what I call good oppo.
TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
> Birddog
02/23/2016 at 07:34 |
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JB weld to plug the diff housing of one of my buddies Land Rovers on the trails. It held up all weekend so he was able to wheel and then make it home. Used some exhaust tape and covered it in JB weld, I always carry it with me now when off roading.
Dave the car guy , still here
> Birddog
02/23/2016 at 08:12 |
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BTDT sorta. Mine was a fuel tank leak on a 1979 Ford Fiesta in 1981. Driving cross country to surf in California I struck something on I-10 in West TX. Whatever it was popped a pinhole in the tank. A sheet metal screw and two part epoxy sealed the hole for eternity . Three years and 100k miles later it was dry when I traded it on a new Honda Prelude.
dietryng
> sdwarf36
02/23/2016 at 09:48 |
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yeah, its that completely dry part that keeps it from working on oil. brake cleaner, and duct tape helps slightly.
Tohru
> Urambo Tauro
02/28/2016 at 12:18 |
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I tried to fix a broken power steering fluid reservoir with JB Weld. I had as much success as you did.